hughes



Julie 19, 1923.

R. R HUGHES. JR

SEWING MACH I NE Filed 001;- 17, 1919 1,459,103 R. R. HUGHES JR SEWINGMACHINE Filed Wit. 1?, 1919 10 Sneehs-5hem 2 June 19, 1923.

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June 19, 1923.

R. R. HUGHES. JR

SEWING MACHINE Filed OCT 17, 1919 10 ShewhmSneeL June 19, 1923.1,459,103

R. R. HUGHES. JR

SEWING MACHINE File Oct. .17 1919 10 Sheets-Sheet 4 June 19, 1923.

1.459.103 R. R. HUGHES. JR

SEWING MACHINE} Filed Oct. 17, 1919 m snem.- smm 1&5

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1 g/g 4 j fif M '11 f I 6 1a.; a? 106 162 June 19, 1923.

R. R. HUGHES. JR

SEWING MACHINE 1G Sheets-Sheen 6 Filed Oct 17, 1919 June 19, 1923.1.459.103

R. R. HUGHES. JR

SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 17. 1919 10 Shecns-5hc0i r June 19, 1923.1,459,103

R. R. HUGHES, JR

SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 17, 1919 10 Sheets-Sheet 9 7 Kid 2 June 19,1923.

1,459,103 R. R. HUGHES. JR

SEWING MACHINE Filed 17 1919 10 Sheeps-Sheet 10 Patented June I9, 1923.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFlCE.

ROBERT E. HUGHES, JR, OF UTICA. NEW YORK. ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINERY COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS. A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEWING MACHINE.

Application filed October 17, 1919. Serial No.

0 it known that l. lioumrr it. Ilromzs, Jr. a vitizvn ol' [ilk l'niteilh'talts. residing at i tica. in tin county of Oneida, State of New York.haw inrentvil ('vrtain new and useful lllllH'llH'llItlliS in SowingMachim's, of which tlufollowing is a ilvsi-ription, rvfervni-v hiringhad to tho am-onuniirving (iItlW- ing and to llu ligurvs of rvivrvncvniaikcil thm'von. 1

Thu inwution whites to new and useful iinprowuiunts in SP\\i1l;Imachines, and more partirularly to a scwin; Il]2l"l|ifl0 for applyin; afaring strip, huttou tay strip. hiu(l ing. or tlu likito garments.

.\n ohjvrt of the invi-nL-ion is to imviilu a sewing mavhinv of the ahow('lHlliH'ill havin; uuans i'ur slitting the garment :iiiil aplyin a staystrip or binding to one edge portion of tin slit.

furthvr ohjt-i't of the invention is to l)l'(i\'i(l(- a machinv of thoahoru character wlu-rvin a faring is simultaneously applimi lo llltother vilgu of tho slit so that, tho garnunt is rut, auil holh mlgrvsthereof simultanvousl i'avvll iHHl lilli lll'ti.

lill i urtlu r ohjm'l lli llu' invention is to [ll'llYitll' a lllllllilll' of tho :ihori: i-haraciei' with slitting" nu-i'hanisin oivraliii; in ail- \ani'v oi tin slllt'liill f nu-i'hanisnl t'oi'slitting (ho l'ahriv. whit-h slitting nit-rhanisui is inanuallrronlrullml l'or ruttiu; a relatively long strip within [lu marginal\ilgvs of the l'ahriv i-itlu-r :11 (hr hoginning or finishingHlN'l'iliHlll.

Anothw (Illjti'i oi the inwntion is to pr0 \iih: a sowing marhinvhaving; a SIISININlLd \uirh su|i|uirlili; arm with -tiu-hing nua'hallill| mmiriu-lvil so that tlw nvmllus may he iihlr spawii null Illllll'il(low to the shin laws of tin arni whvrvlw llilltl' uemlles may la pilltii intwnu-iliaiv saiii 'iilL'l spal'l'il l|((1ili' l'i'lltl'illl Y of thearm.

TiltM aiul otlu-r Olljt'tiS will in part l)P oli- \'iouand will in parti i lilHillHfit'l' more fully ilisi'losml.

l'igunl i a tion and part1 showing a machine merits;

Fig. 2 is a View, partly in plan and partly in il'tlIlSVt'lSP sertion.of tin smut. tlurow-r plate for the work supporting arm living: removed;

Fig. 3 is n vicw. partly in ([Hi clm'ation anrl partly in trauswr vwrtion. through the work support at a point in ailvaiu'v of the slittingIIILYiHHl flIIZ Fig. 4 is a national vii-w on the of Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is a \iOW in toi plan of the front; end of the on-i'hanging ariuaiul the parts assoi-iateil therewith:

Fill. 6 is a v eltiuiial of Fig, 1;

Fig. 7 is a st-viionai Vie on the iilK T--T in longitudinal suction,lflilitltl \'llig my improveline 44 rivw on tho lint 6-6 of Fig. 1;

1 lg. 8 is a plan view sh wing a portion of the work support and thvpreswr fru t for holding the material on the Fig. ll is d lvtaii tionlNUH'PH tho work support: ru n showing tluronnwu i wr lvml (in; anii tlultig. t l i a top plan iii-w of tho uppi'r fiuil ilog. a portion of ihvi'oml liar. aiul slio\\'|n; tho hravlu"! vari'imi h the pri-ssvr in heinlllliii ivy sliitingt mill fining the fx'ulib martini; ihwvr Mm \iiW(if the folder; if? i: a \ii'W shmi'ing iiiagrrmmnati- Hm manner offinishing the siittuil Ehe' gunnent; iig. 34 1: via-w similar in Fig.i9. hut rim-mung tire (Minna eih is along one shit of ihe slit i-"(insured b 11 ('I'USS thread;

i i E21 i n \EPW similar to Fig 1 hut mwin; a binding: fin finishing oneedge of siit; i" 21 YiPW aim-v .g in, migv portion Of the bud ian'nmi inM fini hing the same; and

F' '15 is it \'ii"\\' similar in Fig. 19 but showing iim button stayl'i'ip formed in two ALtifillS,

iii-

simihir to Fig. 2|) but i'ahrlu piercing and cutting a KBiRi'iVQi) longslit within the marginni edges of the garment. Between Th siittingmuvhunisin and the stitching xnvchanism are suitable foldvi's and guidesfur the facing strips;

The invention wiii he hotter understood hv a detailed desm'iptinn of thevarious m'- minimal mechanisms whivh T have. brought tfifl'ethil incarrying nut the invention.

SUN-hing IIMJIIIIINI'MH.

1 at the auxiliary feed oars may not only he ltll i relative to the mainfeed her but may be varied relative to eaeh other.

5 Presser feet and meclimiism for supporting same.

eluted with the feeding .i'rwelnm sin we two presser feet 96 and 9?. Thepi 5r 5 d in harried by the pi seer her and f ot i1? @T'EHTEQI'E ix-y iillili al i n loot 96 has at slot lilo lormed {lion-l1: lor the needle12. Said foot also has :1 slot 101 formed therein through which theuppirr feed dog 77 operates. The Presser foot i)? has needle slots 102and 103 for the needles 6 and 7 respectively, and also a needle slot 101for the needle 13. The presser bar 82 is mounted in suitable hear ingsin the overhanging arm and is ton-ed downwardly by means of a. spring1G5 lo cated in a cap screw 106 threaded into the upper hearing for thepresser her 82 .i cross head M17 is clamped to the presser luv; 99 andalso to the presser bar 82. Thiscross head is connected to an auxiliarybar 161% which is mounted to reciprocate in suitable hearings, and saidbar is pressed down Wardl v by means of a spring 109. The her is liftedby means of a hand lever 110 and. also by means of a foot controlledlever lll which is of the usual construction. Mounted in'the overhangingarm is a cross shaft 115?. This cross shaft is provided with an arm .13which is connected by a link 114 to the foot lever 111. At the other endof the shaft 132 there is an arm 115 which extends underneath the crosshead and. serves as a means or raising the presser ljiikf'S and thopresser foot carried thereby.

lain-1e 16. This movable blade s llfillll'ih sh v carried 1) Y asliding: lll'zifl ll? (see Figs.

llountrd on the overhanging: arm 3 is a bracket arm 118. P aid brarlwtarm carries a sliding support 119. Said sliding support is dove-tailedin cross sertion and is held in plare on the lirm'kot arm by a removableplate 120. A pin 13! is Flvurrd to the Market arm llii, and n pin lit!is secured to the sliding support 119. A spring 123 ronnerting these[)llla-a normally moves the sliding! support llfl\\'l"i\'l'ill'lli"luntil the )in 122 strikes the upper lore of thaln'uv 0t arm 118, Thesliding head ll? mar r'vingr the movable blade 1H3 E lidm in *lw ailing.support H9. Said sliding livid has a lore-tidied lmso which fit in :idm'v i wl reresg in thrsliding support. on:- i e 3 1 and 7).

which is farmed by a removable plate 124. The sliding: head isreciproeated in the support 119 by means of a link 1255, which link ispivotally connected to the sliding head at itq lower end and at itsupper end is pivoted at. 126 to a rock lever 12? pivotally Linried bythe hrnelaet fil'l'll The other arm vi the rovk lm or 1522 is pivoted tolink 2558 whirh in turn is pivoted at iii to an arm till? with theneedle lever ll-fl. its this! All: lever onrillntaa it will prodneereeiy rouitfng armaments; in the movable antler Illa.

llooperating with the movable cutter lit; it i'iormelly stationaryHitter i231. Said stationary cutter is carried by and projects forwardlyfrom :1 depending arm secured to the slidin support 119. This stationarynutter 131 formed with an upper cutting ledge 132 with whirl: themovnhle cutter H6 cooperates. This stationary Hitter is also provided.with a rotting blade 13% and l: pier mg point 13% at the rear end of theblade. The. Work S'lllilfilillig arm 1 is provided. with 21 slot inwhich this normally stationary bill-Jill. is loouted. The upper face 132thereof is sol stantially flush with the upper face of the work support.The lever 135 is pivoted to the bracket arm 118 and the inner end ofsaid lover straddles e pin 136 threaded into the sliding support 119.Said lover is on vided with a handle 33'? whereby it may he swung forraising the stationary cutter ll 11GB tho stationary nutter is raised.i'jlin opening h t-tween the blade 1.1.6- and ill: blade lill is closedso that there is no rimnce of the operators fingers wining into contactwith the cutting blades when. the goods is inserted in the machine. Thestetionary blade 131 raised a sullirient distant-e to enable thet'nlwrir to he stilelu d to he placed underneath the same. When hisblade is lowmr l the pirrring: point l3-l will pierre the fahrir and thelilzule 133 will rut the fabric forming a slit tlirrrim the length ofwhirls is the length of the blade 133. The length ot this cutting bladefrom the pierring point to the extreme rear end there-of issnbstmiiiallv the distance l'elwolfi the rear Side of the stationary rottin; lilado and the needle line so that after the slit is out the fabricmay he moved forward to bring' the extreme inner end of the initiallyrut slit rloso to the stitohing point. and to at least :1 point lflymill*e grinding lltl'il'ls. hereinafter described. as to allow tlnedgeportions of the slit to be properly ill pusod relative to the guidingdevires bar- Fm-v tlnsfitrhingz operation begins.

Frrim r guiding! l views.

lloioro dosrriliing in detail the fabric guiding devil-0s attention sculled to Fi f 1. 1i and 15%. and to one or to whirl: the inwzilion maylieapplimi, in Fig. I? l have lit) to finish the shown the body garment,indicated at G, which is formed with a finished neck opening, indicatedat N. This body garment has been folded or creased along the line L. Itis desired to slit the body fabric from a point indicated at P to theneck opening and edge portions alongside of the slit. The cuttingmechanism referred to above operates to cut or slit the garment alongthe line leading from the point P to the neck opening, or, if desired,from the neck opening to the point P.

As indicated in Flg. 16 of the drawings, the edge portion G along oneside of the slit formed in the body fabric is covered by a button staystri S. his button stay strip is folded about t 1e edge of the bodyfabric and is stitched by the needle 12, which needle passes downthrough the inner ed es of the button stay strip and the body abric. Theother edge portion (i alongside of the slit is faced on one side thereofby a facing strip, indicated at F. This facing strip is secured to thebody fabric by the needles (3, 7 and 13, the needles 6 and 7 beingdisposed so as to cover the edge of the fabric. A small facin strip Fmay be fed to the needles 6 and t for covering the upper face of theedge or, if desired, a cross thread may be laid back and forth andsecured by the needle threads of the needles 6 and 7, as is commonpractice in the sewing machine art.

The guiding devices as embodied in the machine are designed particularlyfor handling the button stay strip and the fac ing strip. The buttonstay strip S is led from a suitable source of supply to a guiding device139 along the upper face of the work supporting arm 4, and at one sideof the stitching mechanism and the presser feet, as clearly shown inFig. 16 of the. draw in At a point in advance of the needles, this staystrip is led into a folding uide 140 shown in detail in Fig. 18 of therawin The receiving end 141 is cut at an angle of to the longitudinalaxis of the folding device so that the strip may be inverted and ledinto the folding device in the reverse manner of handling a bindingstrip in the well-known English binder. The delivery end 142 of saidfolding device is also cut at an an le of 45 so that the strip is againinverte and led in a direction at right angles to the ath of movement ofthe strip through the olding device. This delivery end of the foldingdevice is shaped so that the guiding channels for the side faces of thestrip are separated, thus forming a recess 143.

The edge portion G of the body fabric is led through this recess 143and, therefore, the stay strip as it is inverted and delivered by thefoldingJ device 140 will be positioned so as to cover 0th the upper andlower faces oi' the edge portion of the body fabric aiong one side ofthe slit. The inner edges of the stay stri 1 may be infolded, as shownin Fig. 19, or they may be straight and unfolded provided the edges areselvage edges. The folding device is formed in the well-known manner,either to fold the edges or let the I edges run straight. as desired.This folding device 1-H), as above noted, is in front of the needles andin front of the presscr feet, but is in rear of the cutting devices.

The facing strip 1 is led from it suitable source of supply over :1guide bar 144 carried b a bracket 145 secured to the under face 0 thework supporting :irin, see Fig. 1. It is then led through guidingdevices 146 and HT and thence upwardly through a slot 148 in the worksupporting arm. Said strip passes through another slot 148 in the upperface of the work supporting arm and passes just in rear of the cuttingdevices. Said strip is then directed underneath the folding devices HI]and beneath the presscr foot 97. H' a second facing strip F is used,this is fed directly beneath the presscr foot 97 and to the needles. (3and T.

Net/rod of applying facing .virips.

From the above it will be apparent that I have provided a new method ofsimultaneously applying a button and button hole faciugstrip to agarment, which consists in cutting a slit in the garment and during suchcutting operation and simultaneously therewith sewing to each cut edge afacing strip. ln order to accomplish this means are provided forstitching which inciudes two pairs of needles. Means are also providedfor slitting the garment and means for guiding a facin stripindependently of the garment to eac i of the cut edges of the garmentduring the sewing ihcrcot by the needles.

0 perv/Hon.

in the operation of my device, the tubuhi r body fabric, such as shownat (I in Fig. ii, is placed in the nmcliinc. first the stationary cutterhaving been raised so as to permit the insertion of the. same. (ifcourse. the presscr foot and the needles are both raised and a portionof the garment at the right of the point I is placed underneath thepresser foot and the poirt l directly underneath the piercing point 134of the cutting blade 131. The cutting blade is then lowered by shiftingthe lever 135, the spring 123 forcing the cutting blade downwardly. Thepiercing point enters the fabric, after which the cut ting blade 133slits the fabric. The fabric then may be moved reurwardly. Of course. ifdesired, the cutting blade 133 may be again raised by hand and thelength of the slit made longer by a separate operation thereof.

ill)

The fabric with this mam an therein is then moved rearwardly and theright band edge portion G, as viewed in Fig. 16, is placedjn therecess-143 of the fol ing device 140. The machine is then 'set intooperation, and as the material is fed onto the armof the machine, thebutton stay strip S is placed about the edge ortion G and stitchedthereto by the use e '12, while the facing strip F is stitched by theneedles 6, 7 and 13 to the other edge portion G of the body fabric, thusfinishin the edges of the slit. This slitting of the abric extends intothe neck opening, and the edges will befinished to the neck opening.

The feeding mechanism, as above described, is of a character whichincludes a main feed dog and an auxiliary feed dog which is given adifferential movement relative to the main feed do One of the fabricengaging sections 64 o the main feed do and the cooperatipg auxiliaryfeed dog 7 feed the stay stri while the auxiliary .eed dog engages the ege ortion G of the body fabric in advance of t e stay strip and thusprevents any stretchin of the stay strip. The stitching mechanismoperates in the usual manner for stitching the stay strip and the facingstrip to the edge portions of a body fabric.

It is obvious that many other ways of finishing the edge portionsalongside of the slit may be provided, using different forms of guidesor folders, the essential features of the machine consisting in theslitting of the fabric and the preparing of the edges of the slittcdfabric after passing the cutting mechanism and before reaching thestitching mechanism for the finishing of said edges, and my preferredmeans consists in,

the guiding of the button stay strip and the facing strip as abovedescribed. a,

In Fig. 20 of the drawings, I have showrrthe edge portion G as finishedby a facing.

strip F and by cross threads C stitched down by the needles 6 and 7above the edge of thefabric and by a looper thread I beneath' thefabric. In Fig. 21 I have shown the ed 'e portion G as finished by afacing strip and by a binding, indicated at B, which binding may bereadily directed to the machine by a suitable binder attached to theprcsser foot or the work support. In Fig. 22. I have shown the edgeportion G as finished by means of a facin strip F and by turning in theedge of the ody garment, as indicated at G. In this figure, and also inFig. 21, a single needle is shown for finishing the one edge ofthefabric section G.

In Fig. 23, I have shown the edge portion G as finished by a button staystrip formed in two sections S and S, in which case two needles are usedfor stitching the same. It will be perfectly obvious how the machinestationary may be equipped with the necessary guiding devices for out'ng out these various modifications in the finishing, of the edgeportions of the slit.

Perhaps it should have been stated that in carrying out the operationdescribed in connection with Fig. 17 the upper feed dog is removed andalso the sup orting standard therefor so as to provide a line space forthe tubular garment to pass underneath the overhanging arm. 7 If thegarment operated u on is, however, a union suit wherein the s it extendsfrom the crotch of the garment to the neck thereof, such a garment isusually slitted and finished before the leg portions are stitchedtogether and, therefore, the fin-- ished sections may fall to the sidesof the work sup ortin arm and the upper feed dog may use as thestandards sup orting the same would not interfere .witli the freemovement of the fabric. The auxiliary feed do on the left, as themachine is viewed 111 the front end thereof, is also timed so as to movein unison with the feed dog sections associated therewith when a facingstrip is stitched to the garment, as shown in the drawings. If however,no fac ing strip is used and the edge portion of the garment is turnedin so that the feed dog operates upon the elastic knitted web of thefabric, then the auxilia feed dog on the left may be given aifl'erential feeding movement.

It is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction and thearrangement of the parts may be made without departing from the spiritof the invention as set forth in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters-Patent is 1. A sewing machine including incombination, a work support, a feeding mechanism, a stitching'mecianism, a movable cuttin device, a normally stationary cutting dBVlOGcooperating therewith, said devices being located in advance of thestitching mechanism. and means whereby the stationary cutting device maybe raised above the surface of the fabric, the fabric then slittcdwithin th marginal edges thereof, and the butting device lowered throughsaid slit to normal operative position. i

2. A sewing maclnne including in combination, a worksupport, a feedingmechanism, a stitching mechanism, a movable cut ting device, a normallystationary cutting dcvice cooperating therewith. said devices beingvlocated in advance of the stitching mechanism, and means whereby thestatioru 'ary cutting devices may be raised above the surface of thefabric, the fabric then slittcd said slit to normal operative position,said initial slitting device having a piercing point to facilitate thecutting of the fabric.

3. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, a feedingmechanism, a stitching mechanism, a reciprocating cutting blade locatedabove the work support, a normally stationary blade coopcratingtherewith and having its upper face flush with the surface of the worksupport, means whereby said normally stationary blade may be manuallyraised from the work support whereby a fabric may be inserted beneaththe same, said normally stationary blade having a cutting device on itslower face adapted to initially slit the fabric to permit the stationaryblade to pass therethrongh to normal cutting position.

4. A sewing machine including in com bination, a work support, a feedingmechanism, a stitching mechanism, a reciprocating cutting blade locatedabove the work support, a normally stationary blade cooperatingtherewith and having its upper face flush with the surface of the worksupport, means whereby said stationary blade may be manually raised fromthe work support whereby a fabric may be inserted beneath the same, saidstationary blade having a cutting device on its lower face ada ted toinitially slit the fabric to-permit t e stationary blade to passtherethrough to normal cutting position, said stationary blade having apiercing point at the rear edge of the cutting device for forming theslit in the fabric.

5. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, a feedingmechanism, a stitching mechanism, a vertically sliding support, aIBClIJIOPHClHg cutting de vice mounted thereon, a normally stationarycutting device carried by said sliding support, and means for manuallyraising said sliding support and said stationary cutting device, saidstationary cutting device having a cutting blade at the lower edgethereof in line with the reciprocating cutting device forslitting thefabric to permit the stationary cutting device to pass therethrough.

6. A sewing machine including in combination. a work support, a feedingmocha nism, a stitching mechanism. a vertically sliding support. arecipi'ocating cutting dcvicc mounted thcreon. a normally stationarycutting device curricd by said sliding sup port, a lever for raisingsaid sliding sup port. a spring for normally dcprcssing said lever, saidstationary cutting dc\ icc having cutting blade at the lowcr edgethereof in line with the rcciprocating cutting dcvice for slitting thefabri to permit tlic stationary cutting dcvicc to pass thcrw through.

7. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, a feedingmechanism, a stitching mechanism, a vertically sliding support, amovable cutting device mounted to reciprocate on said sliding support,means for raising and lowering the sliding support, a forwardlprojecting normally stationary cutting d e evice carried by said slidingsupport and cooperating with said movable cutting device, saidstationary cutting device having a cutting blade on its lower faceprojecting downwardly and in line with the movable cutting device forslitting the fabric to permit the stationary cutting device to passthere through in its normal cutting operation.

8. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, a feedingmechanism, a stitching mechanism, a vertically sliding support, amovable cutting device mounted to reciprocate on said sliding support,means for raising and lowering the sliding support, a forwardlyprojecting normally stationary cutting device carried by the slidingsupport and cooperating with said movable cutting device, saidstationary cutting device having a cutting blade on its lower faceprojecting downwardly and in line with the movable cutting device forslitting the fabric to permit the stationary cutting device to passtherethrough in its normal cutting operation. said cutting blade on saidstationary cutting device having a piercing point at the rear endthereof to facilitate the cutting of the fabric within its marginaledges.

9. A sewing machine including in combination, a work support, a feedingmechanism, a stitching mechanism, a vertically Sliding support, amovable cutting device mounted to reciprocate on said sliding su port,means for raising and lowering t e sliding support, a forwardlyprojecting normally stationary cutting device carried by the slidingsupport and cooperating with said movable cutting dcv ice, saidstationary cutting dc. ice having a cutting blade on its lower faceprojecting downwardly and in line with the movable cuttin device forslitting the fabric to permit tlie stationary cutting device to passtherethrough in its normal cutting operation. a lever for raising saidsliding support. and a spring for normaily depressing the same.

it). sewing machine including in combination. a work support, a feedingmechanism. a stitching mechanism, a'normally stationary cutting devicelocated in advance of said stitching mechanism and having its upper facesubstantially flush with the work support, cutting blade at the lowerface of said stationary cutting device, means for supporting saidstationary cutting device from a point above the work support, means forrai ing said stationary cutting device to bring the cutting blade abovethe material,

fill

[it scuiug machine including in combi nation. a work support. a feedingmecnauism, a stit hing mechanism. a norumily stationary cutting devicelocated in advance of said stitching mechanism and having it upper facesubstantially llush with the nork supp rt. a cutting blade at the l werface of said stationary cutting device, means for supporting saidstationary cutting device. from a point above the work support. meansfor rai ing said stationary cutting devi e to iiring the cutting bladeabove the materiah and means for lowering said stationary cutting deviceto cause said cutting blade to form an initial slit in the material.said ut ting blade having a piercing point at the rear end thereof.

ii. The combination with a sewing machine having a suspended worksupporting arm for stitching tuhular articles". a feeding mechanism forfeeding the material lengthwise of said arm. cutting devices located inadvance of the stitching mechanism for slit ting the fabric. one of saidcutting devi-cs being normally stationary and located beneath thefabric, means for upporting said stationary cutting device from ahovethe fabric, means for raising and lowering said stationary cuttingdevice, said stationary cutting device having a cutting blade on itslower face adapted to initiall) slit the i'ahric when lowered on thecutting line.

l3. I he comhinatinn with a sewing machine having a suspended \vorksupporting arm for stitching tubular articles. a feeding mechanism forfeeding the material length wise of said am. cutting devices located inadvance of the stitching mechanism for slit ting the fabric. one of saidcutting devices heing normally stationary and located beneath thefabric. means for supporting said stationary cutting device from abovethe fabric, means for raising and lowering said statirmary cuttingdevice. said stationary cutting device having a cutting blade on itslower fa e adapted to initially slit the fabric \vln-t: loweird on thecutting linc. and a pier ing point at the rear of the cutting alado.

M. The combination with a sewing mahine having a suspended worksupporting arm for stit hing tubular article a l'ccding inochanism forfeeding the matcrial lengthwise of said arui. cutting devices located inadvance of the stitching mechanism for slitting the fabric. and a stripguiding and folding device located bi-twecu the utting devices and theneedles oi the stitching mechanism. said folding and guiding dcvii'ohaving it longitudinal axi disposed at :'i5.fl!l Il ",fl\:- to the linef fee and the dcli'oi' end tlnlwil di-po cd .l an angle of fortyiivedegrees so as to permit astrip to be guided tlu-rcthrough inverted andplaced about one of the edge portions of the slitted fabric. thereceiving end of said guiding and folding device being also dispos d atan angle of i'ortydive degrees whereby the strip ma be led to thefolding and guiding device from a point in rear of the needles and in adirection parallel with the line of feed.

15. The combination with a sewing machine having a suspendedworksupporting arm for stitching tubular articles, a. feeding mechanismfor feeding the material lengthwise of said arm, cutting devices locatedin advance of the stitching mechanism for slitting the fabric. and meansfor guiding a fabric strip from below the work support ing arm upthrough the work supporting arm to a point between the stitchingmechanism and the cutting! devices.

16. The combination with a sewing machine having a suspended worksupporting arm for stitching tubular articles. a feeding mechanism forfeeding the material lengthwise of said arm. cutting devices located inadvance of the stitching mechanism for slitting the i'ahric. a foldingdevice between the cutting devices and the needles of the stitchingmechanism for directing a stay strip about one of the edge portions ofthe slibted fabric, and guiding devices for guiding 11 facing stripalong the other edge portion of the slittcd fabric.

17. The combination with a sewing machine having a suspended worksupporting arm for stitching tubular articles. a feeding mechanism forfeeding the material lengthwise of said arm. cutting devices located inadvance of the stitching mechanism for slitting the fahric. a foldingdevice between the cutting devices and the needles of the stitchingmechani m for directing a stay strip about one of the edge portions ofthe slitted fabri and guiding devices for guiding a facing strip alongthe other edge portion of the slim-d t'ahric. said last-named guidingdevi es hcing disposed so as to irect the strip up through the worksupporting arm at a point between the cutting devices and the needles ofthe stitching mechanism.

1 sewing machine including in comhination a suspended work supportingarm. a. feeding mechanism for feeding the fabric lengthwise of said arm,and a stitch forming mechanism including a needle disposed adjacent eachside face of the arm, a looper cooperating with each needle and movingin a plane parallel with the line of feed, :1 lltl'llll' located betweensaid first-named needles and substantially centrally of the worksupporting arm. and a looper cooperating nith aid lasrnamcd needle andmoving in a plane at right angles to the line of feed.

ISL sewing machine including in comhinatiou' a snspcnded work supportingarm llu

